![]() It's best to use a "buzz" box when setting the ignition timing because it allows you listen to a buzzing noise that stops suddenly when the points just start to open and you can concentrate on watching the aligning marks while listening for when the points are just starting to open. You will have to set the point gap (0.12" to 0.016") with a feeler gauge and set the ignition timing (the points should just start to open when the "F" mark lines up with the aligning mark on the engine case which you'll see when you remove the dynamo rotor cover plate (mounted on the engine laft side cover). They are relatively cheap, so replace both the contact points and the condenser. The ignition contact points are always a source of ignition problems on these models. At this point, you should also renew the points and condenser (the ignition system is the old points & condenser type - old school, and does not use electronic ignition). So assuming the charging system is okay and the battery is the source of your problems, we move on. You won't find a voltage regulator because there isn't any - the battery in this case absorbs excess voltage generation. If the charging system is not working properly, you'll most likely find a fried selenium rectifer but just make a post here or pm me and I'll tell you how to test the individual charging system components. ![]() Once you know that you have a good, fully charged battery, start the bike and check the charging system to make sure that the low battery problem is not because of a malfunctioning charging system. Make sure you have good, clean, and tight battery connections when reinstalling the battery to the machine. If the battery does not measure up to that criteria, renew it. If the battery does take the charge, it should test between 7.5v and 8.3v, and the specific gravity in each cell should read 1.260 and 1.280 (Honda specs). If the battery won't take a charge (it may be shorted across two of the cells), renew the battery. Make sure the vent is not clogged and that the access plugs to the cells are opened - then fully charge the battery. Take out the battery and check the fluid level - if any cell is below the lower full mark, add distilled water to bring it at least to the lower mark but not over the upper mark. Your machine is a 6 volt system and the stock battery is a 6N6-3B From what you have described, and based on my experience as a Honda mechanic & service manager with this model, I suspect you need a new battery. The carburetor is probably fine, but that's not to say that you don't have multiple problems. That means that you have to a good battery and properly functioning charging system to keep the battery charged, in order to sustain ignition and keep the bike running. ![]() Hbhonda, The 1970 Honda SL100 uses what is called a battery-coil ignition system. ![]()
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